Dasenka
だあしゑんか · Bar · Funamachi
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Down a flight of stairs off Sugidaimon-dori, this B1F room is walled in Czech books, Karel Capek's "Dasenka," the picture-book dog the place is named for, sits on the shelf. Owner Takano runs it as a one-man Prague embassy: handwritten menus, memorabilia, low light, quiet enough to actually talk. The draft Pilsner Urquell (500cc, 1,420 yen) is the reason to come; order it next to the beer-braised goulash with knedliky, then close on a shot of Becherovka. Sit at the counter to dodge the 400-yen table otoshi. Non-smoking, twenty-two seats, so book ahead if you're bringing a group.